A Tale from the Medina

The Bookseller: Belfqih

It was this time last year that I met Mohamed (Med) Belfqih, the owner of a quaint little book store in the middle of Rabat Medina’s Avenue Laalou. Med is a retired school teacher who spends his time painting in his book store that he’s filled with books that he tells me he collected during his teaching career. He proudly displays a framed picture from his teaching days behind the counter where he sits, seen beaming alongside his class. “I am a teacher, too!”, I told him after he reminisced to me about his career. At that time, I didn’t know that the colourful paintings on the wall were his own work. Each time I passed by Avenue Laalou, which was often, I went in for a ritualistic “Labas?”. It was the combination of the smell of old books, espresso coffee and Belfqih’s aura which drew me in. Over time, I introduced him to my husband, my children, and even my cousin from England; “you’ll love this little shop”!

Inside the bookstore

It was that time with my cousin that I had been on the hunt for some yarn so I asked Med where I could find some. He told me to wait whilst he went into his back room before reappearing with a bag of used yarn that he said I could have! My cousin insisted it was the happiest she had ever seen my face light up.

During each visit, Med would share a little more about himself and this quickly became a mutual exchange. Not long after the yarn gift, during a visit with my husband, I bought from him some photocopies of vintage embroidery patterns. I was always intrigued by his seemingly odd supply of things that would take my fancy, a real life Aladdin’s cave. At that time I was exploring Palestinian Tatreez and quickly snapped up those patterns which he kindly let me have for 20dh.

Over time, I came to learn about Med’s paintings as I saw him sat working on one during one of my visits. A cigarette, espresso and paintbrush in hand. I explained that I was just cycling by and would have to come back another time and purchase one, InshaAllah. “InshaAllah”, he agreed.

The first painting I was drawn to, a gorgeous shade of purple, Med had a pained look about him as I picked it up. He told me how one of his friends was in awe of the picture and he thought it was his best work to date. It was so detailed and clearly took lot of time. I told him that he shouldn’t sell it, that it was too special, he was clearly attached to it and that he should display it in his shop. He convinced me that if I didn’t buy it, then somebody will, and when I finally agreed I could see he was still unsure. I reaffirmed that I wouldn’t buy it, if it was destined for somebody else then so be it. “You’re going to find it really hard to part with, I want you to keep it” He agreed and so I chose this painting below.

I look forward to showing him this post the next time I visit, InshaAllah.

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